Currently in the Zagreb Airport awaiting a flight to Frankfurt and eventually home, we can reflect on the past couple of days in Pecs, 2.5 train hours south of Budapest. This year the European Union Capital of Culture along with Istanbul, we didn't do anything very cultural!! Is scrabble cultural? No, perhaps not, but our arms recovered from dragging heavy suitcases up and down stairs, on and off trains, and along cobbled streets with a couple of games. Let's face it, we're not in our 20s any more!!!!
However, we did take a walk around the town and were interested in the Mosque that the Catholics commandeered in the 18th Century. What a mish-mash of religions! Another cosy apartment for us to explore from, and more delicious food to try......
Time flies, and we are now in Frankfurt, waiting, waiting........
Some of our moments to remember will be, in no particular order:
*Foal on menus in Slovenia
*Cath's maps with all our routes highlighted, and the Lonely Planets with post-it note bookmarks
*The queues for confession at the Cathedral in Zagreb in Easter week
*No lift in Rovinj and climbing 3 flights to find we were in a box with a view of a wall - we moved to a room with a harbour view the following morning
*The Bistro car on the train - we only ever found one
*Pen's insistence at being just in case early for transport - sometimes hours!
*Easter Sunday service in St Euphemia's in Rovinj
*Discovering that our 48 hour Budapest card included insurance covering the loss of the top half of the thigh - what the?
*Pen sure that she could smell volcano ash in Pannonhalma - the farmers were burning off
*Looking at a sepulchre so dark we couldn't see good King St Stephen's mummified hand - until Pen paid 200 forints
*Cath shoot a prawn tail across the table and onto the floor just ahead of a passing patron
*A full English brekky in Pecs being cereal, rolls, cheese, pickles, tomatoes and ham - and a cold boiled egg
*Walking through the Four Seasons in Budapest pretending we belonged, when we really just needed to use their loo...and tissues, and hand cream...
*Croatia Airlines serving the ham and lettuce roll before we had even pushed back from the gate and had the safety demonstration
All in all we have had a wonderful adventure over nearly 4 weeks and have visited the capital and a regional town in each of Croatia, Slovenia and Hungary. We are still laughing......
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Musical Interludes
We have enjoyed three completely different concerts in our time away, not including the many buskers playing an assortment of instruments, for which we left not a Kuna, Euro or Forint!
In Zagreb we arrived at the Lisinski Concert Hall in plenty of time for a champagne in the foyer before a wonderful performance of Verdi's Requiem. Four rows from the front.....photos earlier in this blog.
In Budapest we spent the evening of Pen's birthday in St Stephen's Basilica, having earlier popped in there to see good King St Stephen's mummified hand and been a bit irreverent (!). The concert included many favourites, with the magnificent organ starting with the Bach Toccata and Air. A violinist, trumpeter, soprano and tenor played a varied program including Handel, Vivaldi, Liszt, Schubert and Mozart. The reverberation was about 7 seconds - wow!!!
The following evening we were excited to attend an all Mozart concert in the Opera House, where we had joined a tour earlier in the week. We fancied a box, but instead had 6th row seats, right in the middle of a House which consistently rates in the top 5 world-wide for acoustics. The soloist for the Violin Concerto in Dmaj was a stunning 20 year-old , Julia Pusker, who commanded our attention, and played to perfection. A champagne during interval gave us an opportunity to mix with the locals and observe theatre practices in Hungary. Like the food.....
In Zagreb we arrived at the Lisinski Concert Hall in plenty of time for a champagne in the foyer before a wonderful performance of Verdi's Requiem. Four rows from the front.....photos earlier in this blog.
In Budapest we spent the evening of Pen's birthday in St Stephen's Basilica, having earlier popped in there to see good King St Stephen's mummified hand and been a bit irreverent (!). The concert included many favourites, with the magnificent organ starting with the Bach Toccata and Air. A violinist, trumpeter, soprano and tenor played a varied program including Handel, Vivaldi, Liszt, Schubert and Mozart. The reverberation was about 7 seconds - wow!!!
The following evening we were excited to attend an all Mozart concert in the Opera House, where we had joined a tour earlier in the week. We fancied a box, but instead had 6th row seats, right in the middle of a House which consistently rates in the top 5 world-wide for acoustics. The soloist for the Violin Concerto in Dmaj was a stunning 20 year-old , Julia Pusker, who commanded our attention, and played to perfection. A champagne during interval gave us an opportunity to mix with the locals and observe theatre practices in Hungary. Like the food.....
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
The adventure continues...
The Rooster Room awaited us in the hotel in Ptuj! Not to say there was a rooster inside, but this themed Story Hotel was a great find. Located in a cobbled street, it had a coffee room at the front, and further in a cosy lounge with a table ready for us to commandeer, which we did soon after arriving, using the late afternoon to plan our days. As luck would have it we found ourselves smack in the middle of a 50th, shaking hands with the birthday girl, weeping as we witnessed the welcome she gave elderly rellies (we assumed!), but not offered a champagne as they moved into the dining room.
Sunday (11 April) was wet, and after a morning of scrabble and lattes at 'our' table, we headed up the hill behind us to the castle, where we spent several hours out of the rain, fascinated by the history and exhibitions.
We wanted get north to Maribor, and did so on the following rainy and cold day. Managed the bus, but made a huge detour navigating the town before we found we had passed the castle (which Cath was sure would be at the top of the hill - it wasn't) an hour or so earlier. Cold to the bone by then, our triumph was to find the oldest vine in the world, still producing 25 litres of wine annually. Wouldn't you know, the shop's closed on Mondays, and the reader will appreciate from the photo the disappointment we felt!!! As we left the town we saw it was 4 degrees - no wonder we were cold in our cotton layers!
A 7 hour train trip to Budapest.....no 1st class, but we barricaded ourselves in a compartment and created a comfy haven.
We seem to improve our quarters with each move (after one night in a box) and have enjoyed a suite in a central Pest location and a 2 minute walk from a great street of restaurants. What a great time to travel here - note to reader....the season changes on 26 April, so streets and hotels are clear of pesky tourists now! Except us!
Morning walking tours of Buda and Pest have given us a good oversight to this beautiful city, and thanks to Pen, the map and trusty Lonely Planet we have walked (almost) every street in the city. The House of Terror has given us an insight to life here under the Nazis and Communists, and the bronze shoes along the Danube waterfront a chilling memorial to the Jews shot at that spot.
Didn't we have a luvverly day, the day we went to......no, not Victor, but Pannonhalma! Northwest of Budapest, and just a Monastery and exclusive boarding school for 300 boys to see, it was another adventurous day for the intrepid travellers. Disembarking from the train we found ourselves at an isolated frontier outpost, complete with a dentally challenged attendant with no English, and a 2km walk to town - which we didn't actually find... but a bus stop, which we spent an hour standing at until we realised we were on the wrong side of the street! **Read many laughs** Miracles do happen, and so it was that we finally caught the bus and arrived at the top of the hill for (another) personal tour. Wonderful literally, with an awesome library which was breathtaking in its antiquity.
We have unexpectedly loved Budapest, in a country so often invaded and brutalised....Mongols, Turks, Austrians, Germans and Russians, and so much during our lifetime. We have both had our first visit to a Synagogue (the 2nd largest outside NY), and have been moved by personal stories. We have also visited the market, which rivals Adelaide's, and taken another day trip, this time to Szentendre (St Andrew's), 20kms north of Budapest. A fabulous week, including Pen's birthday.
The cloud that hangs over us, although not literally, is whether we will be able to leave Europe......
Sunday (11 April) was wet, and after a morning of scrabble and lattes at 'our' table, we headed up the hill behind us to the castle, where we spent several hours out of the rain, fascinated by the history and exhibitions.
We wanted get north to Maribor, and did so on the following rainy and cold day. Managed the bus, but made a huge detour navigating the town before we found we had passed the castle (which Cath was sure would be at the top of the hill - it wasn't) an hour or so earlier. Cold to the bone by then, our triumph was to find the oldest vine in the world, still producing 25 litres of wine annually. Wouldn't you know, the shop's closed on Mondays, and the reader will appreciate from the photo the disappointment we felt!!! As we left the town we saw it was 4 degrees - no wonder we were cold in our cotton layers!
A 7 hour train trip to Budapest.....no 1st class, but we barricaded ourselves in a compartment and created a comfy haven.
We seem to improve our quarters with each move (after one night in a box) and have enjoyed a suite in a central Pest location and a 2 minute walk from a great street of restaurants. What a great time to travel here - note to reader....the season changes on 26 April, so streets and hotels are clear of pesky tourists now! Except us!
Morning walking tours of Buda and Pest have given us a good oversight to this beautiful city, and thanks to Pen, the map and trusty Lonely Planet we have walked (almost) every street in the city. The House of Terror has given us an insight to life here under the Nazis and Communists, and the bronze shoes along the Danube waterfront a chilling memorial to the Jews shot at that spot.
Didn't we have a luvverly day, the day we went to......no, not Victor, but Pannonhalma! Northwest of Budapest, and just a Monastery and exclusive boarding school for 300 boys to see, it was another adventurous day for the intrepid travellers. Disembarking from the train we found ourselves at an isolated frontier outpost, complete with a dentally challenged attendant with no English, and a 2km walk to town - which we didn't actually find... but a bus stop, which we spent an hour standing at until we realised we were on the wrong side of the street! **Read many laughs** Miracles do happen, and so it was that we finally caught the bus and arrived at the top of the hill for (another) personal tour. Wonderful literally, with an awesome library which was breathtaking in its antiquity.
We have unexpectedly loved Budapest, in a country so often invaded and brutalised....Mongols, Turks, Austrians, Germans and Russians, and so much during our lifetime. We have both had our first visit to a Synagogue (the 2nd largest outside NY), and have been moved by personal stories. We have also visited the market, which rivals Adelaide's, and taken another day trip, this time to Szentendre (St Andrew's), 20kms north of Budapest. A fabulous week, including Pen's birthday.
The cloud that hangs over us, although not literally, is whether we will be able to leave Europe......
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Sunny Slovenia
The intrepid travellers left Rovinj Monday, running for the bus in rain, and made the connection to our first train trip from Rijeka into Slovenia. Comfortable in first class with maps at the ready, and lots of leaping up to see views that always seemed to be on the aisle side of the carriage!
Once again we had chosen the hotel well, and were happy to be upgraded to a very nice room with a view of the Ljubljana Castle. The weather was kind, contrary to predictions, and we didn't see a cloud for all our days in Ljubljana....until Saturday when we were leaving! With Pen at the ready with Lonely Planet we walked this beautiful city, visiting the Castle, spending a morning in the Tivoli Gardens in the sunshine, and discovering intersting places for dinner.
On Thursday we took a guided tour to Lake Bled, and the bonus of travelling in the low season is that we were joined by just one other couple, and were able to disgress a little from the set course for the day. A private tour of the hotel Vila Bled, a former summer retreat for the luxury-loving Tito was a special bonus. Bled is truly spectacular, and we both rang the bell of the church on the island and made a wish!
We really had a personalised tour on Friday when we were the only ones on a day trip to Lipica, home of the Lippizaner horses. On the way we stopped at an ancient hillside fortified town, Stanjel and home to 40 residents currently, where we tasted the local proscuitto and red wine sitting in the sunny courtyard. A tour of the stud farm preceded a demonstration in the main arena, which was magnificent.
It has been great to speak with the locals and learn so much of the history of this country; so plagued by wars and invasions over centuries, and yet so cultured and seemingly refined. Interestingly, of the 2 million inhabitants 900,000 Slovenians attend the theatre each year! Education here is of great importance also, all is free, a positive legacy of General Tito and the Yugoslav regime.
And now we have moved on east to Ptuj, the oldest city in the country......another castle to explore......
Once again we had chosen the hotel well, and were happy to be upgraded to a very nice room with a view of the Ljubljana Castle. The weather was kind, contrary to predictions, and we didn't see a cloud for all our days in Ljubljana....until Saturday when we were leaving! With Pen at the ready with Lonely Planet we walked this beautiful city, visiting the Castle, spending a morning in the Tivoli Gardens in the sunshine, and discovering intersting places for dinner.
On Thursday we took a guided tour to Lake Bled, and the bonus of travelling in the low season is that we were joined by just one other couple, and were able to disgress a little from the set course for the day. A private tour of the hotel Vila Bled, a former summer retreat for the luxury-loving Tito was a special bonus. Bled is truly spectacular, and we both rang the bell of the church on the island and made a wish!
We really had a personalised tour on Friday when we were the only ones on a day trip to Lipica, home of the Lippizaner horses. On the way we stopped at an ancient hillside fortified town, Stanjel and home to 40 residents currently, where we tasted the local proscuitto and red wine sitting in the sunny courtyard. A tour of the stud farm preceded a demonstration in the main arena, which was magnificent.
It has been great to speak with the locals and learn so much of the history of this country; so plagued by wars and invasions over centuries, and yet so cultured and seemingly refined. Interestingly, of the 2 million inhabitants 900,000 Slovenians attend the theatre each year! Education here is of great importance also, all is free, a positive legacy of General Tito and the Yugoslav regime.
And now we have moved on east to Ptuj, the oldest city in the country......another castle to explore......
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Easter in Rovinj
A 4 hour bus trip delivered us from Zagreb to the beautiful fishing town of Rovinj, on the western Istrian coast. Impeccable timing with shops and cafes starting to open for the season, but not the tourist crowds thronging!
After a busy time in Zagreb climbing hills and dales we enjoyed a lay day on Good Friday, settled under the awning in front of our hotel with the scrabble, Lonely Planet, copious lattes and a few wines, and watched the passing parade.
On Saturday we took the bus half an hour south to Pula, and wandered the town. This whole area is so interesting, with the Italian, and particularly Venetian, history evident. In Pula we were able to understand a little more as the signs were in both languages. There is very little English anywhere, though thankfully the menus are translated!
Easter Day has been very special here. Although Easter Bunny hadn't visited our room overnight, he had delivered to the Easter breakfast buffet, which also included meats, cheese, spring onions and radishes alongside the cornflakes, fruits and croissants. An overcast and chilly day, but perfect for the acsent to St Euphemia's on top of the hill for Croatian Easter Mass, followed by an exploration of the cobbled streets and lanes of of this lovely village.
We're laughing lots...at others and ourselves!
A 4 hour bus trip delivered us from Zagreb to the beautiful fishing town of Rovinj, on the western Istrian coast. Impeccable timing with shops and cafes starting to open for the season, but not the tourist crowds thronging!
After a busy time in Zagreb climbing hills and dales we enjoyed a lay day on Good Friday, settled under the awning in front of our hotel with the scrabble, Lonely Planet, copious lattes and a few wines, and watched the passing parade.
On Saturday we took the bus half an hour south to Pula, and wandered the town. This whole area is so interesting, with the Italian, and particularly Venetian, history evident. In Pula we were able to understand a little more as the signs were in both languages. There is very little English anywhere, though thankfully the menus are translated!
Easter Day has been very special here. Although Easter Bunny hadn't visited our room overnight, he had delivered to the Easter breakfast buffet, which also included meats, cheese, spring onions and radishes alongside the cornflakes, fruits and croissants. An overcast and chilly day, but perfect for the acsent to St Euphemia's on top of the hill for Croatian Easter Mass, followed by an exploration of the cobbled streets and lanes of of this lovely village.
We're laughing lots...at others and ourselves!
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Zagreb at last
Chasing Business Class seats all the way, which meant travelling via Perth and Singapore with long transits, we arrived in our Zagreb hotel 41 hours after leaving our respective homes. It was worth it for the beds on the plane! The 90 minute massage in Singapore wasn't bad either.
With pleasant weather to walk we hit the Zagreb streets and organised tickets for Verdi Requiem tonight and Easter on the Istrian Peninsular - nice to get away for the break!
Pen loves a Lonely Planet, and we walked the upper town today with her expert guidance, knowledgable dissertations on tourist spots and great sense of direction. Cath's multilingual abilities means we can say thank you proficiently......courtesy is paramount to maintaining these travellers' high standards.
Off to Rovinj by bus tomorrow.....
With pleasant weather to walk we hit the Zagreb streets and organised tickets for Verdi Requiem tonight and Easter on the Istrian Peninsular - nice to get away for the break!
Pen loves a Lonely Planet, and we walked the upper town today with her expert guidance, knowledgable dissertations on tourist spots and great sense of direction. Cath's multilingual abilities means we can say thank you proficiently......courtesy is paramount to maintaining these travellers' high standards.
Off to Rovinj by bus tomorrow.....
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